Daniel Hoyer’s Culinary Mexico is absolutely
gorgeous. Nearly every recipe begins with a drool-inducing full-color photograph
on the facing page. Even the text is colorful, with Spanish recipe names in
green quill pen font, English translations in blue capitals and the ingredients
list in red italics. The book is divided into chapters dedicated to six culinary
regions of Mexico. Some of the dishes, like queso fundido, pozole and empanadas
will be familiar to many; others, like queso relleno (baked Gouda stuffed with
spiced meat) are appealingly unfamiliar. But if you have access to a
Latin-American market or even a regular supermarket with a well-stocked ethnic
foods section, you will be able to find the ingredients for most of these
dishes. The only drawback here is that some may find the more intriguing dishes
involve an awful lot of work. If you love Mexican food and chiles, you’ll find
plenty to love in Culinary Mexico. --Gwyneth Doland
Grandmothers know best: 'Mexico' cookbook proves it
By Lori Korleski Richardson -- Bee Staff Writer Published 2:15 am PST Wednesday, February 15, 2006
Story appeared in Taste section, Page F1
Story appeared in Taste section, Page F1
As popular as California's version of Mexican food is - whatever you may
think of Taco Bell or any of its ilk, you can't argue with the fact that they've
exported their brand of success across the nation and the world - many long for
a more authentic experience: spicier, chewier, grittier and with a vegetable
content that isn't exclusively pickled jalapeños, shredded iceberg lettuce and
picked-green-then-gassed-red tomatoes.
Yes, a few restaurants have risen to the challenge in this area, but for a
better variety of dishes at a fraction of the cost, pick up a copy of Daniel
Hoyer's "Culinary Mexico: Authentic Recipes and Traditions" (Gibbs Smith,
$34.95, 240 pages). With this book, which includes gorgeous photographs (by
Marty Snortum) of the food and how to put it together, even a fledgling cook can
whip up meals that will please.
Hoyer, who learned to cook from his grandmothers as a boy, was the sous chef
at Mark Miller's Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, N.M., when he became inspired to spend
time in Mexico to learn more about the cuisine. He traveled widely, taking
classes, picking up recipes and techniques, and learning what foods define
distinct regions.
From the Yucatán he
offers papadzules, the intriguing enchiladalike dish with two sauces: one of
ground pumpkin seeds, surprisingly creamy when mixed with water and a little
salt; and a fresh salsa of charred tomatoes and habanero chilies. The filling is
traditionally wedges of hard-boiled eggs, but he suggests using shredded chicken
or turkey for a heartier version; I've also made it with diced tofu for a
heart-healthful version, and no one even noticed - the sauces are indeed the
star of this dish.
Pescado ajillo (fish fillet with chilies and garlic), from Oaxaca, puts you
right at the beachside palapa restaurant from which it came, and served with
arroz verde, it makes a striking presentation with the confetti strands of
chilies and toasted garlic atop the glistening white fish and the bright green
of the rice dish to the side.
Put a fork of it to your mouth and experience the fireworks of the chilies
perked up with the lime wash of a sauce that's poured over the silken fish. It's
an explosion of flavor you won't soon forget.
There aren't a lot of desserts, and they are sprinkled throughout the book,
but they range from churros to coconut ice cream. Sprinkled throughout, too, are
appetizers such as the little tamales with greens, and soups such as squash
blossom and sweet corn, and peanut and chipotle cream.
"Culinary Mexico" puts Hoyer right up there with Diane Kennedy and Rick
Bayless in that small group of cookbook writers who have brought the authentic
taste of Mexico north for the home cook. He's not yet as prolific as Bayless nor
as academic as Kennedy, but "Culinary Mexico" is a delicious start.
Review Date: DECEMBER 01, 2005 Publisher:Gibbs Smith Price (hardback): $34.95 Publication Date: October 2005 ISBN (hardback): 1586853759 Classification: COOKING AND ENTERTAINING
Celebrated chef Hoyer goes beyond the tortilla in this
opulent collection that celebrates Mexico’s rich diversity.
In America, Mexican food is commonly reduced to cheap margaritas and
refried beans. In actuality, it’s an explosive mix of flavors that Hoyer
explores with as much of a cultural as a culinary eye. He organizes by region
rather than course, making it a treat for armchair travelers as well as chefs.
From La Frontera, which borders the United States, he offers perennial favorites
like “Baja Style Fish Tacos” and “Durango-Style Beef Stew.” Along the Pacific
Coast, La Costa Oro is famous for fresh seafood dishes like “Garlic Shrimp with
Chiles.” La Encrucijada, home to Mexico City, is a vibrant mix of modern and
indigenous cooking styles, and El Centro Colonial reflects a heavy Spanish
influence. La Tierra Maya in the Yucatan, as the name suggests, keeps Mayan
tradition alive with dishes such as “Baked Gouda Cheese Stuffed with Spiced
Meat.” El Istmo, which separates the mainland from the Yucatan peninsula, boasts
some of the country’s most interesting cuisine, and Hoyer’s takes on “Sweet
Anise-Seed Tamales” and “Peanut and Chipotle-Chile Salsa” are exotic and
inspired. A patient instructor, Hoyer also provides an extensive manual of
Mexican ingredients and cooking techniques.
A beautifully illustrated gastronomic tour of a culinary Mecca that’s too often
simplified.
Customer Rating: Review Summary: A Truly Definitive Work on Mexican Cuisine Review: When we're not cooking Cuban, we love to try other
ethnic cuisines and Mexican food is no exception. However, we tend to shun the
predominant Tex-Mex style in favor of REAL Mexican cuisine as enjoyed not in
the tourist centers, but in the heartland of Mexico.
We're adding Culinary Mexico to our small collection of Mexican recipe books.
It joins books by Diana Kennedy and Rick Bayless as this author has created an
excellent and definitive work on Mexican cuisine. Although we especially liked
the recipes from the Yucatan, where many of the flavors echo those found in
Cuban cuisine, we were even more impressed with Hoyer's sections on Mexico's
Central Crossroads and Colonial Plains and Highlands where the cooking style
is pure, simple, and uninfluenced by the tastes of American tourists on a
beach vacation.
If you want to explore a cuisine that is light years removed from the food
dished out at the local Taco Bell, this is a great book with which to begin
your journey.
Highly recommended.
Also recommended: Three Guys From Miami Cook Cuban
Article in The Santa Fe New Mexican
by Patricia West-Barker
.jpg)
From the Yucatán he
offers papadzules, the intriguing enchiladalike dish with two sauces: one of
ground pumpkin seeds, surprisingly creamy when mixed with water and a little
salt; and a fresh salsa of charred tomatoes and habanero chilies. The filling is
traditionally wedges of hard-boiled eggs, but he suggests using shredded chicken
or turkey for a heartier version; I've also made it with diced tofu for a
heart-healthful version, and no one even noticed - the sauces are indeed the
star of this dish.